Archive for November, 2008

New Yorker article!

Posted by Fuchsia on November 21, 2008
Chefs, Chinese cuisine, Restaurants / 18 Comments

My piece about a restaurant in Hangzhou appears in this weeks New Yorker Food Issue. It’s the first time I’ve written for the magazine.

Below are some of the photographs I took while researching the piece;



This is one of the private rooms at the Dragon Well Manor restaurant




  Continue reading…

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A weekend of cooking

Posted by Fuchsia on November 03, 2008
Cooking / No Comments

I went to my parents’ place in Oxford for the weekend, and as usual spent most of the time in the kitchen. I love cooking there, listening to Radio 4, going into the garden from time to time to pick some herbs, stirring pots on the Aga. And it reminds me of my teenage years, when I spent far more time making pastry, creme patissiere, hummus and chocolate cakes than doing my schoolwork. Continue reading…


Dining alone

Posted by Fuchsia on November 03, 2008
Restaurants / No Comments

A piece I wrote after my last visit to New York appeared in the Financial Times this weekend.

Here’s a brief excerpt:

Something as pure and scintillating as a raw oyster demands your full attention. You must sniff it for the whiff of sea breeze, the almost-sound of seagulls and waves breaking. Ease it from its shell, add a squeeze of lemon, a dash of sauce mignonette or even (here) a dollop of ketchup laced with horseradish. And then hold it up, the rough shell against your lip, and let it slide into your mouth, giving yourself over to its icy voluptuousness and the silvery taste of the ocean.

There is something sweetly decadent about being a woman in a restaurant alone, well-dressed and content, enjoying a platter of rugged oysters on their bed of ice. I don’t do it often, but when I do, it makes me feel like a “fast” woman of the 1920s, wearing trousers and smoking cigarettes; or a swashbuckling English missionary of the 1930s, crossing the Gobi Desert on a cart drawn by mules; even, at times, Mata Hari. Eating oysters alone, and enjoying them as much as I do, makes me feel that I am capable of anything…

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Chairman Mao’s red-braised pork

Posted by Fuchsia on November 01, 2008
Recipe / 2 Comments

The Independent newspaper in Britain used this recipe from my Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook to accompany an article about… chillies. This is Georgia Glynn-Smith’s beautiful photograph of the dish, taken in my flat in London during the shoot for the book (it appears on the cover of the US edition). The pork is served in a bowl made during the Cultural Revolution: you can’t see very clearly in the photograph, but it’s emblazoned with a picture of a truck and a revolutionary slogan. I picked it up when I was living in Hunan in 2003.

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