On Monday night I went to the awards ceremony for Restaurant magazine's annual survey of the 'World's Fifty Best Restaurants'. Predictably, and I think deservedly, El Bulli took the top spot for the fourth year running, and Ferran Adria and his brother Albert were there to receive the award. But once again the only Chinese restaurant on the list was Hakkasan - in London! I'm a great fan of the dim sum at Hakkasan, and I love the design, but the best Chinese restaurant in the world?! Come on...