This time, I haven’t felt tied to particular recipes from China, but have given myself freedom to play and experiment, using Chinese flavours and techniques in both traditional and very unconventional ways. So alongside a very traditional spinach and peanut salad from Beijing, for example, you’ll find a raw cauliflower salad that I simply made up myself, inspired both by dressings I’ve tasted in Yunnan and Guizhou and a raw cauliflower salad with pecorino from Seattle. I’ve devised a new version of one of my favourite Sichuanese recipes, fish-fragrant aubergines (yuxiang qiezi 鱼香茄子) that is made in advance and served cool, so it can be scaled up and made in large quantities for a party – I’ve been making this dish all summer!  

There’s an introduction that explains some Chinese approaches to flavours, talks about various seasonings and how to use them, and outlines some of the most scrumptious and versatile flavour combinations, along with guidance on buying different types of tofu and planning a Chinese menu. The title of the book comes from the Chinese notion of five tastes (in contrast to the western four - sweet, sour, salty and bitter - because of the addition of spicy or pungent – 辛xin or 辣 la), which is not just literal but also a symbol of all the flavours at a cook’s disposal and a metaphor for the wider pleasures of gastronomy.  

The book itself is a beauty, thanks to the brilliant ideas of my longstanding editor Richard Atkinson, the designs of Dave Brown, the illustrations of Yiting Nan and the photography of Yuki Sugiura (with props styling by Cynthia Inions). 

 I hope you enjoy reading and cooking from it as much as I enjoyed writing it!